Ceramide NPO (CAS 5966-28-9, N-Oleoyl-phytosphingosine, Ceramide NO / Ceramide 9 type, C₃₆H₆₉NO₄, MW ~582 g/mol) is a sphingolipid composed of a phytosphingosine backbone (C18 tri-hydroxy sphingoid base) N-acylated with oleic acid (C18:1, cis-Δ9 mono-unsaturated fatty acid). The defining structural feature is the cis double bond at carbon 9 of the oleic acid chain, which introduces a rigid ~30° kink in the fatty acyl tail. This kink prevents tight hexagonal/orthorhombic lateral packing of ceramide molecules within the lamellar lipid bilayer — the kinked oleic acid chain creates steric hindrance that increases inter-lipid spacing, elevates bilayer fluidity, and enhances permeability. This is the opposite of straight-chain saturated ceramides (NP, NPS, AP) that pack tightly via van der Waals forces to form the mature, impermeable stratum corneum barrier. NPO is Nature’s “fluidizing ceramide”: oleic acid-based ceramides (NPO, EOP) are enriched in the stratum granulosum (viable epidermis) where the barrier is being assembled — fluidity is essential for lipid processing, lamellar body extrusion, and enzymatic conversion. As the barrier matures in the stratum corneum, oleic acid content drops significantly, replaced by stearic/palmitic saturated chains for tight packing. FTIR verification: C=C stretch at ~1655 cm⁻¹ and =C-H cis out-of-plane bend at ~720 cm⁻¹ confirm the cis-Δ9 double bond. Melting point 75–85°C (lower than NP at 85–95°C due to kinked chain disrupting crystalline packing). Iodine value 80–95 g I₂/100g confirms unsaturation. UPOR Biotech provides synthetic bioidentical Ceramide NPO at ≥95% (Cosmetic Grade) and ≥98% (Premium Grade) HPLC purity.

Ceramide NPO’s cis-Δ9 kink makes it a natural, skin-identical penetration enhancer through four biophysical mechanisms: (1) Increased lipid bilayer fluidity — the kinked oleic acid chain disrupts tight ceramide packing, increasing inter-lipid spacing and solute diffusivity across the stratum corneum; (2) Lamellar phase perturbation — NPO promotes a more disordered, liquid-crystalline lipid phase (vs. tight gel-phase), lowering the activation energy for molecular permeation without dissolving barrier lipids; (3) Oleic acid synergy — free oleic acid is a well-established penetration enhancer in pharmaceutical science; NPO delivers oleic acid in a skin-identical ceramide scaffold that integrates naturally into the barrier; (4) Physiological biocompatibility — NPO is native to human epidermis (stratum granulosum), so it enhances permeation without the irritation, barrier damage, or cytotoxicity associated with synthetic enhancers (DMSO, azone, surfactants). Key applications: transdermal drug delivery systems (patches, gels), deep-penetrating anti-aging actives (retinol, peptides, growth factors reaching viable epidermis), flexible barrier repair for mature/dry skin that has become overly rigid, and hair care requiring cuticle penetration for internal cortex strengthening. NPO enables actives to reach target depths while maintaining barrier biocompatibility — a unique advantage over non-physiological penetration enhancers. For transdermal delivery, NPO ratio can be elevated to 20–30% of the ceramide blend to intentionally enhance permeation.

Recommended usage rate: 0.1–1.0% in leave-on formulations. Ceramide NPO is typically formulated as part of a multi-ceramide blend rather than as a standalone ceramide — the optimal physiological ratio mirrors the skin’s natural ceramide composition: ~70% saturated ceramides (NP, NPS, AP — tight-packing, barrier-sealing) to ~15% unsaturated ceramides (NPO, EOP — fluidizing, plasticity-providing) plus ~15% other ceramide classes. This ratio is not arbitrary: it reflects the stratum corneum’s mature barrier composition where saturated chains dominate for impermeability, with a minority unsaturated fraction retained from the stratum granulosum assembly phase to maintain baseline plasticity and enable barrier repair. Formulating above ~20% NPO may over-fluidize the barrier, increasing TEWL. For transdermal delivery applications, NPO ratio may be elevated to 20–30% of the ceramide blend to intentionally enhance permeation. Incorporation method: NPO is oil-soluble — add to the lipid phase at 60–75°C during emulsification alongside cholesterol and free fatty acids at the physiological 1:1:1 (ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid) molar ratio for optimal lamellar structure formation. Compatible with all standard cosmetic ingredients. pH stable 4.0–7.0. For complete barrier formulations, NPO should be combined with NP, NPS, AP, and EOP to cover all ceramide classes at physiological ratios.

Ceramide NPO and Ceramide NP represent the two functional poles of the physiological ceramide spectrum — and both are essential. Ceramide NP (stearic acid C18:0 + phytosphingosine, CAS 34354-88-6): straight, fully saturated fatty acid chain that packs tightly via van der Waals forces into a dense orthorhombic lipid phase — the mature, impermeable barrier ceramide (melting point 85–95°C). NP dominates the stratum corneum and provides water-proofing. Ceramide NPO (oleic acid C18:1 cis-Δ9 + phytosphingosine, CAS 5966-28-9): ~30° kink at the cis double bond prevents tight packing, creating a fluid, permeable lipid phase (melting point 75–85°C, lower due to kinked chain; iodine value 80–95 g I₂/100g confirming unsaturation). NPO is enriched in the stratum granulosum assembly phase. Key analytical differences: FTIR — NPO shows C=C stretch at ~1655 cm⁻¹ and =C-H cis bend at ~720 cm⁻¹ (absent in NP); iodine value — NPO 80–95 g I₂/100g vs. NP <5 g I₂/100g; melting point — NPO 75–85°C vs. NP 85–95°C; fatty acid profile — NPO shows C18:1 ≥90% with C18:2 3–8% and C16:0 2–5% vs. NP dominated by C18:0 stearic acid. The skin barrier needs both: NP provides the impermeable seal; NPO provides the plasticity for assembly, repair, and renewal. A formulation with only NP creates an overly rigid, brittle barrier; excessive NPO creates a leaky barrier. The physiological ~70:15:15 ratio is the sweet spot.

Every shipment includes: COA (HPLC purity ≥95.0% Cosmetic Grade or ≥98.0% Premium Grade, full fatty acid profile — C18:1 ≥90% / C18:2 3–8% / C16:0 2–5% by GC-FID, iodine value 80–95 g I₂/100g, melting point 75–85°C, FTIR spectrum with cis-double bond verification at ~1655 cm⁻¹ and ~720 cm⁻¹, heavy metals ≤10 ppm, microbial panel per USP standards), MSDS, HPLC Chromatogram (signed and dated), FTIR Spectrum (with cis-Δ9 double bond annotation), Fatty Acid Composition Analysis (GC-FID), BSE/TSE-Free Statement, Non-GMO Statement, Allergen Statement, HALAL Certificate, KOSHER Certificate, ISO 22000 + HACCP, ISO 9001:2015, FDA Facility Registration, Stability Data (2–8°C real-time 24-month and 25°C/60%RH accelerated 6-month), and Complete Lot Traceability from raw material to finished product. Free sample available for qualified B2B buyers. MOQ: 1 kg. All documents provided in English.